Just a scenic road trip away from Pendleton sits Leavenworth, Washington, a town I’d been dying to visit ever since my assignment in Klamath Falls. Tucked into the eastern slopes of the Cascade Mountains, Leavenworth is an adorable little village with a big personality. When you arrive in Leavenworth, it looks like you’ve somehow landed in the middle of Bavaria, complete with alpine-style buildings, flower boxes, and restaurants serving schnitzel and bratwurst. But it wasn’t always this way.
Originally a logging and railroad town, Leavenworth struggled economically after the Great Northern Railway pulled out in the 1920s. In the 1960s, the town reinvented itself with a bold idea: transform into a Bavarian-themed village to attract tourists. And it worked. Today, every business, from gas stations to coffee shops, is required to follow the Bavarian building codes. Even the Starbucks wears lederhosen (okay, not literally, but it does look Bavarian, and you get the idea).
Leavenworth has become a year-round destination, drawing over two million visitors annually. It’s especially famous for its over-the-top Christmas celebrations, when the whole town lights up like a Hallmark movie set. Streets fill with people sipping warm glühwein, taking horse-drawn carriage rides, and soaking up the holiday spirit under a blanket of snow and twinkle lights.
My trip to Leavenworth was SO much fun – and it started with a surprise. I hit the road around 8:00 a.m., not realizing that the town’s annual Autumn Leaf Parade was in full swing when I arrived. Streets were blocked off, people were everywhere, and I had no idea what was going on. I ended up following a few other drivers and snagged a spot by the fire station. There weren’t any signs saying I couldn’t park there… so I took my chances.
I caught the tail end of the parade, which featured what seemed like a never-ending stream of “princesses” representing different towns, schools, and organizations. I didn’t really understand what was happening, but it was still fun to watch. Afterward, I stopped at the Visitor Center to get the lay of the land before heading into the heart of downtown.
Leavenworth is adorable. Picture a full-blown Bavarian village – charming wooden architecture, flower boxes, German music in the air, and people strolling the streets with giant pretzels in hand. The downtown was closed to cars for the festival and lined with tents for an art show. A band played the chicken dance and, yes, people were actually out there doing it. It was such an unexpectedly delightful welcome.
I found a spot for brunch and sat outside with a mango mimosa, two eggs, potatoes, and some fresh tomatoes. As I sipped and people-watched, I noticed tiny white flakes drifting through the air. At first, despite the warm temperature, I thought maybe it was early snow. It wasn’t. They were flakes of ash.
Two massive wildfires were burning nearby – actually the two biggest in the state, and by my third day, they were the largest in the country. Leavenworth was sandwiched between them, and the air had that hazy look that makes everything feel slightly unreal. Oddly, you couldn’t really smell the smoke, but I could definitely feel it in my face. I’ve dealt with smoky skies before (Klamath Falls, Pendleton…), but I’d never experienced falling ash. That was a first.
After brunch, I was craving some nature time, so I picked the Icicle Gorge Trail for an afternoon hike without realizing it was a 45-minute drive each way, and I had already driven four hours to get there. The road out there was full of potholes and wound its way through the mountains. Eventually, I hit a dirt road and bumped my way to the trailhead.
The hike itself was lovely, an easy 4-mile loop along the Icicle Creek, surrounded by trees just starting to turn with the season. I passed a couple of hiking groups and even a wedding along the way. It was peaceful and beautiful, but I couldn’t help but think of Travis Decker as I walked. Travis Decker had been all over the news for a couple of months before my trip to Leavenworth, accused of murdering his two daughters and disappearing into the wilderness. His body had recently been found somewhere in this general area, and as I looked around, I noticed how easily the dense brush and steep drop-offs could hide a person. It made me reflect on how impossible it would be to survive out there for long.
Back in town, I grabbed my iPad and walked into the lively streets to find dinner. I’d heard Munchen Haus had amazing soft pretzels – and let me tell you, it lived up to the hype. I ordered a warm pretzel, a German-style hot dog, and sat outside at a picnic table while a band played live German music nearby. I read my book, ate my dinner, and just soaked in the atmosphere. It was a perfect little moment.
Later, I wandered down to a winery where a sign advertising warm wine caught my eye. Turns out they served glühwein – hot spiced wine that’s a staple at German Christmas markets. On that cold, smoky evening, it was exactly what I needed. Even better, the guy pouring wine was wearing a University of Hawaii hat. We ended up chatting about his time living in the islands, and when he found out I knew the places he loved, he insisted on giving me my wine on the house. Then his buddy from a nearby bar walked in…and he was from Maui! Hawaii connections seem to pop up in the most unexpected places.
The next morning, I started my day with a walk along the Waterfront Park Trail. It wasn’t quite what I expected, but it was peaceful, and I enjoyed having some tea in hand while I strolled. For lunch, I finally got to try the bagel shop I’d missed the day before when they had completely sold out by 1:00 p.m.! This time I got there earlier, and it was totally worth it.
After lunch, I explored the town some more, took pictures, and then headed to the Alpine Coaster. It was recommended by the Visitor Center, and I figured…why not? It’s a self-controlled coaster where you get to regulate your own speed (I went fast, of course). It was short, but really fun and surprisingly zippy. Plus, it gave a nice view over the town.
I wasn’t quite ready to be done for the day, so I did one more hike – the Old Pipeline Trail. It was fairly short and followed the river, which was crystal clear and beautiful. At one point, I looked down and saw a whole school of salmon swimming below. I wasn’t sure what kind of fish they were, but I ran into a sweet couple from Alaska who confidently told me, “We know our salmon.” Fair enough.
After walking a total of 11.5 miles that day, I was ready to chill. I grabbed another great dinner, picked up a bath bomb, and headed back to my hotel to relax in the whirlpool tub and give my legs a break.
On my last day, the forecast called for rain, so I skipped hiking and visited the Leavenworth Reindeer Farm instead, and oh my gosh, it was such a blast! We started with a short video full of fun reindeer facts (did you know male reindeer usually only live to about two years in the wild?). Then you get to choose how to feed them, either from a cup or by holding out a leafy branch. I went for the branch, but once they stripped the leaves, no one was that interested in my sad little twig. So I pulled the rest of the leaves off and fed them by hand, feeling the soft velvet of their noses against my palm.
Some of the reindeer had big personalities; one kept trying to pick fights. I learned that if a reindeer approaches you with its antlers, you’re supposed to turn your back on it. Apparently, eye contact is a sign of aggression! Easier said than done, let me tell you.
One particular reindeer, Sven, wasn’t even in a pen. He’s eight years old, which, as you now know, is super old for a male reindeer. They weren’t sure he’d make it through last winter, but there he was, just hanging out, calm as ever.
After reindeer time, the on-site food and coffee truck opened up and served homemade treats (including warm drinks and lefse – a traditional, soft Norwegian flatbread), and I wandered through their Christmas-themed gift shop. On the day I visited, there were 88 days left until Christmas. I was not yet counting, and this was a pleasant surprise for a girl who LOVES Christmas!
I wrapped up my visit with stops at the Leavenworth Historical Museum and the famous Nutcracker Museum, which houses over 9,000 nutcrackers from more than 50 countries, spanning centuries of history. It’s one of the largest and most comprehensive nutcracker collections in the world. The museum was founded in 1995 by George and Arlene Wagner, a couple who began collecting nutcrackers simply because they loved them. Arlene, a retired ballet teacher (which probably explains the love for all things Nutcracker), still gives lectures and occasionally appears in the museum.
After a final German hot dog from Munchen Haus, I hit the road and headed back to Pendleton.
It was a full weekend and one I’ll always remember. Leavenworth has a way of surprising you in the best possible way. I’d absolutely love to go back and experience it in winter, with snow on the rooftops and Christmas lights glowing through the mountains. I imagine it’s like stepping straight into a snow globe.
