After a whirlwind night on Tahiti, Rosie, and I were up early, headed right back to the airport to board a plane to Moorea. The thought of taking the ferry was tempting, but our eagerness to maximize our island adventure led us to the airport.
Moorea is a mesmerizing island tucked away in French Polynesia, right next to Tahiti. This place is a jaw-dropper with towering green peaks, like Mt. Moua Puta and Mt. Tohivea, just begging you to hike up and catch those postcard-worthy views (which I would LOVE to do with more time!) But there’s more – the water is like something out of a dream, clear as crystal. Snorkeling here is like floating in an aquarium; there are colorful fish darting around and coral gardens that are simply hypnotic. And don’t get me started with the sharks and rays you can swim with, it’s like an underwater ballet. Plus, there’s a whole cultural vibe going on, from traditional dance performances to ancient temples. With a population of nearly 18,000 (2017 census) over 51.74 square miles, Moorea is a never-ending adventure-meets-paradise mashup that’s impossible to forget.
We touched down on Moorea around 10:45 am, eagerly securing a taxi to whisk us away to our hotel. What greeted us was pure Polynesian hospitality – leis and tropical adult drinks – despite check-in not being for another few hours. The hotel staff, with their infectious warmth, showed us around the cozy little spot. The common area wasn’t vast, but it oozed tropical charm and comfort. But what really set this place apart was its living, breathing character. Trees and flowers weren’t confined to the exterior; they found a home inside, too. Books and games were scattered around, calling guests to unwind. We grabbed our drinks and headed for the dock, and there, the world turned into a dream. The water was impossibly clear, every grain of sand visible, fish gliding gracefully around. Then, out of the blue, a stingray cruised by – a wild one! I’d never seen anything like it. The water called, and I couldn’t resist; I jumped in, relishing in its warmth and beauty. I swam until our room was ready, cheekily checking in still wrapped in a towel. Hotel Fenua Mata’i’oa was a true gem. The common areas matched the splendor outside, and the rooms didn’t disappoint, either. We stayed in two different rooms, as the upgrade I got with my United miles wasn’t an option on the first night. But let me tell you, neither room left us wanting. Each came with its own patch of beach, and while the upgraded room came with a slightly larger and more secluded beach, both were paradisiacal.
Once settled, my friend Chris and her local friend, Heimata, came to take us away for happy hour, or pau hana as we say in Hawaii. Chris, a good friend from Hawaii, had independently planned her French Polynesia trip but ended up on the same flight as me (Rosie met me on Tahiti). Heimata treated us to our first taste of French Polynesian cuisine at a nearby spot called Taoahere Beach House Snack. Then he became our personal island tour guide, showing us a few of the breathtaking sights of
Moorea – Cook’s Bay (a historically significant destination known for its stunning natural beauty, outdoor activities, waterfront dining, and spectacular sunsets,) Mt. Tohivea (the highest peak on the island, standing at about 3,960 feet about sea level), Rotui (a striking twin-peaked mountain known for its rugged beauty, hiking opportunities, and stunning panoramic views of the island’s lush landscape and panoramic views,) Opunohu (a picturesque valley known for its tropical beauty, hiking trails, historical significance with ancient Polynesian temples, and breathtaking views,) and countless pineapple fields within Opunohu. He even invited us to his home, where we met his nonchalant island dog. These French Polynesian pups define the art of relaxation – they don’t bark, remain utterly unperturbed, and just chill all day. What a life they lead! Heimata, being the ultimate host, mixed up delightful tropical drinks, brimming with fruit freshly plucked from his yard. Stories flowed, laughter filled the air, and after this slice of paradise, Heimata drove us back to our haven. With the sky turning over to night, I couldn’t resist a moonlit swim before heading to Holy Steakhouse, a stone’s throw away, for dinner. The full moon eclipse provided a dramatic backdrop, setting the stage for our entire adventure.
The next morning, we were greeted by rain, a gentle start to our day. However, French Polynesia, like many tropical destinations, knows that a little rain is just nature’s way of saying hello. Sure enough, the rain didn’t last long, and the skies cleared. As soon as the weather permitted, we seized the opportunity to rent a clear canoe from the hotel. Our destination: the sandbar in front of the hotel, a secret Heimata had let us in on. This sandbar wasn’t fully exposed, but the water is shallow enough to explore. Heimata had clued us in that tour groups often stop here to entice blacktip sharks and stingrays for visitors to swim with. And what an experience it was! For Rosie, canoeing was a maiden experience, and sharing these firsts always brings me a special joy. She took it like a pro. Once at the sandbar, Rosie held down the fort in the canoe while I ventured into the water to mingle with the sea creatures. Despite not being part of any tour group, the guides from the various tours were friendly and welcoming, arriving on boats and jet skis. One of them was on first-name terms with the rays, and he introduced us to these gentle, albeit a bit frightening, animals. They swam by, and we were allowed to interact with them, and even hold them – a truly incredible experience. I got up close and personal with Lucy as she surprisingly nibbled my cheek, a sensation that made me jump, scream, and smile all at the same time.
Just the day before, Heimata had told us the story of a similar encounter, though in his case, it wasn’t his cheek that was the focus…it was something far more personal, leading to screams that echoed across the island! We played in this aquatic wonderland for a good 30-40 minutes before paddling back to our hotel to switch rooms, after which we got back in the water for some snorkeling. It was just so hard to resist the allure of this unbelievably pristine water. Our new room was even more phenomenal – similar in style but more spacious. It featured a separate bathroom, offering more privacy than the previous bathroom where a curtain had served as a door.
After our underwater adventures, we decided to explore Moorea on foot. We started out on a leisurely stroll, ending up at Chez Tamahau in Haapiti for a late lunch. I also grabbed a pizza to-go for dinner later. Our snacks, including cheese, fruit, and eggs, had been our trusty companions, and they’d serve as breakfast for our last morning. Boiled eggs seemed to be a local favorite, and our hotel even provided a boiled egg maker, which we happily employed. Our final morning on Moorea greeted us with a sunrise that defied belief. We enjoyed our eggs and savored some cheese and apples before bidding adieu to this enchanting island. As we left Moorea behind, a sense of longing for more time here blended with excitement for the next leg of our journey – Huahine.
