Aside from the gorgeous water, good food, and great company, my favorite part of my Belize trip was visiting the Lamanai Mayan Ruins with Seaduced by Belize.
My friend, Terri, joined me on this adventure, setting off early in the morning. We were promptly picked up at a nearby boat dock by our knowledgeable guides, Leon and Daisy. We were the first to be picked up, followed by a lively family of 16. Interestingly, some members of this family had come from Klamath Falls, a small city in Oregon where I had spent nine months the previous year. This small-world connection added an unexpected twist to our journey.
Once our entire group was on board, we began our jungle adventure. We began on a scenic cruise over the crystal waters of the Caribbean Sea, and our excitement rose when we caught a glimpse of a playful dolphin pod. Shortly thereafter, we reached the Northern River, a unique waterway characterized by its brackish composition – a blend of seawater and fresh water – and lined with enchanting mangrove trees. This leg of the journey lasted approximately an hour, but it was more than just a boat ride. We were treated to a sumptuous breakfast served right on the river, featuring a homemade breakfast burrito, freshly-baked banana bread (skillfully crafted by Daisy), fresh watermelon, and refreshing orange juice. Leon, our guide, also shared a wealth of knowledge about many things Belize. He informed us that Belize is home to over 300 islands, and its electricity comes all the way from Mexico. The national animal of Belize is the tapir, while the black orchid graces the nation as its official flower. The mighty mohagany stands as the national tree, and the vibrant toucan proudly claims its role as the national bird.
This first boat ride ended in the village of Bomba, where we stretched our legs, answered nature’s call, and did a little souvenir shopping. We then boarded a bus in Bomba that ushered us to Orange Walk, a journey of nearly 2 hours. This bus ride gave us additional opportunity to learn about Belize. Leon, our knowledgeable guide, shared a valuable insight: for everything in the jungle that can kill you, there is something that can cure you. For instance, saw palmetto has curative properties for prostate cancer, and vervain and John Charles (hyptis verticillate) can be used to treat Covid.
Shortly into the bus ride, Leon, with great enthusiasm, plucked a leaf from a dye tree and passed it around the bus. One by one, we tore off small pieces, rubbed them between our fingers, and marveled as they transformed into shades of red. This leaf had been used by the Mayan people to paint their artifacts, revealing a piece of Belizean history right before our eyes.
As we continued our journey, in the middle of one of his informative stories, Leon leaned out the bus a second time and grabbed a guava fruit. We also learned that Belize is the only English-speaking country in Central America. In addition, the Mennonite population, who arrived in Belize in the 1950s according to Leon, holds a significant influence over the country’s economic landscape. They are the primary producers of cheese, meat, and other commodities. The Mennonite community operates its own schools, and, as Leon pointed out, has distinctive preferences, humorously noting that “they don’t like chocolate boys.”
Our journey also blessed us with a rare sighting of a jabiru in the distance. This towering bird, one of the largest in Belize, stands at an impressive 4 ½ to 5 feet in height and has a wingspan ranging from 8 to 12 feet. Its beak alone measures 12 inches. While this majestic, white stork is a sought-after sight for bird enthusiasts, it’s not an everyday encounter. Although it was too distant for us to capture in a photo, its immense size was unmistakable even from afar.
In Orange Walk, we took another pause, spotting a baby boa that had found a cozy resting place near the bathrooms. Our final leg of the adventure involved one more boat ride, this one guided by Eddie, that over the next 25 miles, 45 minutes, would transport us back in time to 1500/2000BC via the New River.
As we made our way closer to Lamanai, we passed tranquil fields of lily pads, all while the distant echoes of howler monkeys reverberated from the heart of the jungle. At last, we reached our destination, disembarking from the boat and immersing ourselves in the captivating realm of Lamanai. Fortunately for us, Lamanai was not crowded this day, allowing us to capture some remarkable photographs, sans people.
Lamanai is an ancient Mayan archaeological site that stands out as one of the most remarkable and exceptionally well-preserved. The name “Lamanai” is rooted in the Mayan language and translates to “submerged crocodile.” Lamanai spans over 3,000 years of history, one of the Mayan cities with the longest history of habitation. There are over 700 structures in the area with only a small percentage excavated; the majority remain underground. Per our guide, Eddie, the American Embassy sponsored current work on restoration, preservation, conservation, consolidation, and excavation.
The site’s architectural wonders include imposing temples, expansive plazas, and various other structures. Noteworthy among these are the High Temple, the Mask Temple, and the Jaguar Temple. The High Temple, in particular, deserves attention as one of Belize’s tallest Mayan pyramids, offering panoramic views of the surrounding jungle from its summit.
Our Mayan Ruins expedition began at the Jaguar Temple, where Eddie commenced our exploration with a wealth of knowledge about the area and Mayan culture. While we waited for the previous group to finish climbing the Jaguar Temple, Eddie provided an extensive lesson on Mayan history. During the zenith of Mayan civilization, this city was home to a bustling population of between 60,000 and 70,000 residents.
At the Jaguar Temple, we could see two distinct faces of the jaguar adorning its base; the right face had been meticulously reconstructed, while the left remained in its original state. In Mayan culture, the jaguar symbolized the epitome of power. This temple also contained a pit burial, a testament to the belief that when a pharaoh passed away, one of their servants would be sacrificed to continue serving in the afterlife. Animal bones often accompanied the deceased as well, either the remains of cherished pets or sustenance for the afterlife, as they were believed to continue providing companionship or food respectively. Mayan culture was replete with symbolism, including the precise alignment of their cities with specific constellations. After Eddie’s enlightening lesson, we ascended the Jaguar Temple, taking plenty of pictures of this ancient wonder.
Continuing on to the next temple, The High Temple, we came across the very boa that Eddie had shared a sorrowful story about back on the boat. Just the previous day, Eddie had been leading a tour when this particular snake had captured a bunny. Eddie, being an adept snake handler, offered to rescue the bunny, but the group decided to let nature take its course. They watched as the helpless bunny was devoured by the snake. Now, the snake lay full and content, resting quietly along the trail.
Arriving at the High Temple, Eddie provided more intriguing insights. The temple itself is a staggering 2,125 years old and stands at a towering height of 33 meters. Notably, it is precisely aligned with the North Star, once again showcasing the Mayans’ profound astronomical knowledge. We were not able to climb the High Temple, and restoration was in process. Nearby, we saw a Ball Court where the Mayans played a unique ball game. They used a rubber ball with a diameter of 25 cm and a hoop that reached a soaring 25 feet in height. The captain of the winning team would receive the honor of being sacrificed, a testament to the significance of this ancient sporting ritual.
The final temple of this tour was the Mask Temple. The Mask Temple is a site renowned for its remarkable stucco mask adorned with intricate carvings. This mask is widely thought to represent a revered deity or mythical figure from Mayan mythology. Ascending the steep stairway of the Mask Temple not only provided us with another breathtaking view of the lush Lamanai jungle but also offered a chance to connect with the rich Mayan heritage and its artistic mastery. Following our exploration of the Mask Temple, we made our way back towards the entrance and were treated to a scrumptious lunch. Terri and I had wisely brought along our own tortillas which we just couldn’t get enough of (we even bought tortillas to leave the country with they were so good!). Our foresight paid off, as lunch consisted of a classic Belizean dish: beans and rice with a side of coleslaw, which paired perfectly with our tortillas.
Once we had savored our meal, we had some time to browse the various quaint shops in the area and explore the museum’s exhibits. However, the true highlight was the enchanting presence of howler monkeys in the trees above us. Their captivating antics provided endless entertainment, and I couldn’t help but be utterly entranced by them.
Our return journey to San Pedro followed the same route in reverse: by boat along the New River to Orange Walk, then a bus ride to Bomba and finally, a boat ride back to Ambergis Caye (San Pedro). However, this trip had a different flavor as it didn’t include a meal. Instead, they offered us a choice between beer and rum punch, both of which were a refreshing treat after our day of exploration. Terri and I both chose the rum punch. After a full ten-hour day since departing from the boat dock in the morning, we returned with not only lasting memories, but also a newfound understanding and deeper respect for the beauty of Belize.
