Our Canadian vacation culminated in Quebec City, staying our first night in the heart of the city at Hôtel des Coutellier. The hotel was perfectly situated, with nearly everything in Old Quebec within walking distance, including all the Winter Carnaval activities.
We were immediately captivated by Quebec City, with its French heritage and old-world charm. With a 2022 population of approximately 540,000, the official language of the province is French, but within the city limits, most people also speak English. As we ventured further outside the city’s borders, we discovered that immersion into the French language became more and more prominent.
Our Quebec journey revolved around the Quebec Winter Carnaval, or “Carnaval de Quebec.” This carnival is a hallmark celebration of winter culture and tradition in Quebec City. Originating in 1954, the festival has evolved into one of the world’s largest and most renowned winter events, attracting thousands of visitors annually – and we now know why! The festival occurs over a two-week period from late January to early February, which typically coincides with the coldest and snowiest time of the year in Quebec City. While it certainly wasn’t the coldest and snowiest this year, the weather still created a backdrop of wintry enchantment.
At the heart of the Winter Carnaval lies a rich tapestry of activities and events that showcase the unique spirit and heritage of Quebecois culture. Despite our eager participation in numerous activities, the depth and breadth of the event left us feeling as though we had barely skimmed its surface. Our first day was a sensory feast, as we were entranced by all of the ice sculptures scattered around the city, each crafted with meticulous precision. Our exploration led us to a toboggan ride, where the crisp air buzzed with anticipation as we waited patiently in line for this unique ride. As night approached, we were swept away by the carnival’s nighttime parade – an extravaganza of choreographed performances, large-scale moving animations, and mesmerizing music and light shows. From acrobats jumping on trampolines to human candlesticks, the parade ignited both our senses and our imaginations, leaving an indelible imprint on our memories. Following the parade, we ventured into one of the carnival setups that featured a large climbing wall shaped like a polar bear that you could even ice climb on, a tube slide, tri-skis, mini-golf with hockey sticks, a ball pit, live music, a fire pit, and at every carnival event site – a bar.
The festival’s effigy, Bonhomme Carnaval, is the iconic symbol of Quebec’s Winter Carnaval. The effigy changes yearly and is the official pass for the entire carnival. You just tie it to your coat, and for $30CAD, it gives you access to every carnival event. Bonhamme Carnaval was born from a snowflake and is now a jovial seven-foot snowman adorned with a red cap and a warm smile. He wears a distinctive sash featuring the colors of the Quebec flag – these sashes were traditionally used to tie coats tighter around the waist for warmth and to support the back during hard work. Bonhamme has been a beloved ambassador of the carnival since its beginning, spreading joy and laughter wherever he goes. Statues of Bonhamme are scattered throughout the city, and he makes appearances at every carnival event. We were able to see him in action a few times, and Tiff even chased him down to get a picture – and a dance! – with him. Bonhamme’s presence adds an element of tradition and folklore to the Winter Carnaval. His origins can be traced back to Quebecois folklore, where he symbolizes the resilience and joy of the people in the face of winter’s challenges. It was clear that today he continues to hold a special place in the heart of both locals and visitors alike.
The next day we got to see the canoe race and do some ice fishing. As we arrived at the canoe race, the sounds of cheering crowds echoed against the icy St. Lawrence River. The canoe race, a time-honored tradition dating back to the carnival’s inception in 1955, unfolded in a flurry of paddles and determination! Once crafted from sturdy wood, today’s canoes are made of fiberglass and are much lighter. The race takes the teams up the St. Lawrence River, navigating first over solid ice, then over water with icebergs to dodge, and back over the solid ice again. It is a popular event with many teams and many, many people there to cheer them on. The ice fishing setup was especially exciting for Tiff. They put 3,000 trout in the water for people to catch, and while the trout were rather elusive, the thrill of the chase and the camaraderie of fellow anglers was enough for Tiff. This day, we also indulged in maple syrup taffy, a tantalizing treat for the taste buds. With maple syrup drizzled over snow or ice chips, we watched the transformation as the syrup hardened into a sticky confection. We rolled our popsicle sticks over the sticky taffy, creating a maple taffy lollipop that certainly left us wanting more – yum!
Our final day in Quebec, as serendipity would have it, we stumbled upon the ice castle that we had been looking for as well as two other exciting carnival areas. Bonhamme’s castle was a frozen splendor! His icy castle has been a part of the Winter Carnaval since 1954. Over the course of five weeks, a staggering 600,00 pounds of snow and ice are meticulously sculpted into an architectural marvel that is as fleeting as it is inspiring; it is demolished in a single day at the end of Carnaval. The architecture of the castle changes with the theme of the carnival every year. Another carnival sight featured an igloo and other ice sculptures, complete with artists actively working on bringing more frozen creations to life. Nearby, another inviting ice bar beckoned. At this bar, we were introduced to the delightful Maple Cream Whiskey, unfortunately reserved exclusively for Quebecois palates at this time. A third realm of icy delight this day offered even more Quebec entertainment – a comedy show, albeit in French, an ice slide, a zipline, a silent disco, live music, and yet another ice bar.
In essence, the Quebec Winter Carnaval is more than just a festival – it is a celebration of resilience, camaraderie, and the enduring spirit of winter. Through its diverse activities, cultural experiences, and festive atmosphere, the carnival brings people together to revel in the beauty and joy of the season, forging cherished memories that last a lifetime.
In addition to the Winter Carnaval activities in Quebec, our adventures took us on a journey through the historic streets and iconic landmarks of this enchanting city. We walked along the cobblestone lanes of Petit-Champlain, the oldest commercial street in North America, popping in and out of the quaint boutiques and charming cafes. We ascended the Funiculaire, which offers panoramic views of the city’s skyline and winding waterways. We admired the Quebec castle, also known as the Hotel Frontenac (or Chateau Frontenac), a city icon that has earned the title of the world’s most photographed hotel. And we ventured into the Plains of Abraham, a historic battlefield-turned-park that that offers a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Here, we watched people effortlessly glide across the world’s largest outdoor skating rink. And we strapped on our skis and fulfilled a long-held dream of cross-country skiing with laughter and exhilaration.
We also explored Quebec a bit outside of the city walls, landing at Chute Montmorency, the highest waterfall in Quebec. Located about 26 miles outside of Quebec City, this towering cascade of water stands at an impressive 272 feet, higher than Niagara Falls. One of the unique aspects of Chute Montmorency is the towering falls’ spray freezes in the winter creating a snow pile at its base referred to as the “Sugar Loaf.” There’s a suspension bridge across the falls as well as several viewing platforms that provide phenomenal views of both the waterfall and the surrounding landscape. We started at the top of the falls and were able to take a cable car ride to the bottom where there were additional viewpoints and a souvenir shop. On the cable car, we found ourselves in the perfect position to witness a beautiful rainbow in the mist-filled air of the falls! It was absolutely stunning. If you ever find yourself in Quebec, be sure to add Chute Montmorency to your list of must-see destinations!
After our first night in Quebec City, we stayed at an incredible Airbnb 30 minutes outside of the city in Lac Beauport. Our Airbnb was called “Tricera,” a name given to it by its owner who grew up with a love for dinosaurs. Tricera was built on an immovable rock from prehistoric times, which also contributed to its name. This Airbnb surpassed expectations by a longshot! A tiny home in size, it came with everything we needed, including a firepit. Apparently, most guests don’t use the firepit in winter, but our host went above and beyond to plow the snow around it for us so that we could use it. We spent our final evening in Quebec simply enjoying the sunset over the snow-covered hills, staying warm by the fire, and admiring the clear night sky at Tricera. You couldn’t ask for a more relaxing place to stay!
