Barrow is a small but mighty town. Many people say there isn’t much to do here, but I was never bored. Ever. I was in Barrow for six months, from January to mid-July. I can really only speak to visiting during this part of the year; however, I think visiting Barrow anytime would be an incredible experience. One thing to remember is that this part of the world experiences six weeks of 24 hour darkness as well as six weeks of 24 hours of daylight. This does not mean that it is pitch black for six weeks, nor is there direct, overhead daylight for six weeks. I learned that there are different levels of twilight, and darkness does not necessarily mean night. I was lucky to experience both of these, and I have to say, the 24 hours without sun was significantly easier than 24 hours with sun. When the sun never sets, it’s very difficult to a) get yourself to bed, and b) sleep once you’re there. Plus, with 24 hours of darnkess, Lady A puts on a hell of a show on numerous occasions!
Whatever time of year you visit Barrow, I would recommend renting a car. You really can’t drive far, but you’ll want to be able to explore on wheels. For rentals, there is UIC car rental, and if you stay at King Eider Inn, they rent cars as well. The prices tend to be significantly higher after May 15 for the summer.
A trip to Barrow would best be added on to a trip elsewhere in Alaska, unless you just want to get away and enjoy life’s simple moments for longer. I would recommend 2-4 days in Barrow. The tricky part is that you need to be flexible because there is never a guarantee on when you will get in or out of Barrow. The fog can roll in out of nowhere, and the one flight per day may not be able to land. That being said, it’s all part of the magical wonder of Barrow to me, and I love it. I hear they are working on adding a morning flight, so that will increase your chances.
Below is my suggested four day itinerary:
Day One: Land around 4:30pm. It can take a while to get your bags at this small airport, so pack your patience. Pick up rental car, check into hotel, eat dinner, take pictures at the Whalebone Arch right behind Top of the World Hotel, drive around.
Day Two: Visit the Inupiat Heritage Center. Be sure to check the hours before you head to Barrow – you may need to adjust your schedule so that you can be sure to get there. Eat lunch Ilisagvik College. Drive around and look for polar bears or other wildlife. Try to get out to Point Barrow. It is not legal to go by yourself if you are not native, and you don’t want to. You may be able to find a native person willing to take you on snow machines or 4x4s, but 71 North Tours is a good way to go during the summer months.
Day Three: Do a cultural tour. Top of the World Hotel does tours during the summer months as well. Mike Shults is another summer tour guide. Don’t forget to do a polar plunge! If you do this on your own, take a video and show it to Top of the World Hotel for a special certificate and patch. Spend some time walking around Barrow. If the snow is melted, there is a nice lagoon boardwalk to walk around. Shop for souvenirs at the Stuakpak, the AC, or the radio station. With any extra time, drive around and look for wildlife.
Day Four: Have coffee at the Midnight Sun Coffee Shop at the Samuel Simmonds Memorial Hospital. Don’t forget to take a peek at the free condoms as you walk in! Take a walk on the beach. Do this safely – be extra careful if you go alone, and keep your eyes open for polar bears. During the winter, the Arctic Ocean is a frozen landscape that goes on for miles and miles. It is gorgeous to look at! During the warmer months, look for sea glass or smooth, ocean-battered rocks along the beach. Eat lunch. Check in and drop your bags at the airport up to four hours before your scheduled flight. Drive around and look for anything new before your flight around 5:30pm!
Six months was not enough time in Barrow. Seriously. But it’s not for everyone. I spent a LOT of time driving around with friends and looking for polar bears, and while it took four months before I saw anything, I loved every moment. We drove all the roads multiple times. The running joke was when we rented a car for 24 hours, we’d drive every road eight times. And it’s funny because you’ll get to the end of the road and have to turn around. They just stop! Some places to go are out to the gas fields (sometimes the caribou like to hang out here), to the duck camps past Ilisagvik College (you’ll go by the blue football field and the bridge at the top of the world on your way), and to the gravel pits where the tug boat is. The cemetery in Barrow is one of the most beautiful cemeteries I have ever seen. There are plenty of places to stop along the way to take pictures and/or look for wildlife; Barrow is a bird lover’s paradise in the summer. Barrow is really a beautiful place, but you have to be able to see the beauty in nature. There are no bars in Barrow; it’s a damp town – you can bring your alcohol in and you can drink it legally, but it is illegal to buy or sell in Barrow. There are no malls, no movie theaters, no formal pay-for entertainment. But if you’re lucky, you’ll visit during one of their many events, and that is truly a cultural treat.
Some of my favorite places to eat in Barrow are Niggivikput at the Top of the World Hotel, Sam and Lee’s, Osaka, and Liliana’s.