Before I began my journey to Barrow, I had this vivid vision of a photograph I wanted to capture. It involved me in a car taking a picture through the window with a curious polar looking in. This was an idea I had completely independent of doing this, but if you search “polar bear looking in car” on Google Images, you’ll see exactly what I had in mind. Sadly, I never had the chance to snap that photo, but some of my lucky friends managed to capture it! Nevertheless, my fascination with polar bears grew ten-fold after I arrived in Barrow until it became an almost obsessive addiction. For real. Every day off I had, you could find me at the beach, scanning the Arctic for any sign of these majestic creatures. If I had a way to get to Point Barrow, I was there, hoping for a glimpse of a polar bear. I rented a car multiple times just to drive around in search of them. I even invested in a pair of high-quality binoculars – all to aid me in spotting those elusive polar bears. And when I found myself in Kaktovik, if someone offered to take me to the bone pile, you bet I was there, eager for the chance to witness a polar bear in its natural habitat.
On April 22, a group of us rented a car and, once again, we circled Barrow, one lap after another. I’d rented cars before, but this time was different – it marked the first occasion I actually spotted polar bear tracks!!! The rush of excitement was
palpable among all of us! We lacked the expertise to determine the freshness of these tracks or if a polar bear might be lurking just beyond the snowy barrier. Some tracks were clearly old, while others remained a mystery. We encountered numerous tracks that day, and it’s impossible to convey the sheer thrill we all felt. Yet, despite the tracks aplenty, an actual polar bear remained elusive. It wasn’t until May 29, after I’d been in Barrow since January 9, that I finally laid eyes on my first polar bear.
Well, no, I take that back. Sort of. There was one day when my friend, Michelle, and I were at the beach, scanning the icy horizon for polar bears. We both witnessed something swift moving out there, a dark shape that vanished before I could process it. Initially, I didn’t think much of it, but Michelle mentioned she’d seen the same mysterious movement. We had both observed something dark, moving in the same direction, and then disappearing. A whaling captain once shared some wisdom with me – if you see something moving on the ice, it’s probably a polar bear. Plus, there were no birds around in Barrow at that time, and it was too far away to be anything else. So, we were pretty sure we’d glimpsed a polar bear, but a hint of suspicion lingered. We didn’t realize that from a distance, polar bears can appear quite dark in color. Still, since we didn’t see it in full polar bear form, we don’t count it as a confirmed sighting. This happened sometime towards the end of April.
Back to May 29. On May 29, I followed my usual day-off routine, strolling down to my favorite spot near the gas station, which I later learned was the boat dock. As I approached, I noticed two people ahead of me. They seemed like tourists, which indeed they were. By the time I reached my spot, they were already preparing to leave. I casually inquired, “Nothing interesting out there?” It was an older gentleman, perhaps about 15 years my senior, and his adult son. They replied that they hadn’t seen anything noteworthy, and we struck up a conversation about their vacation and my time in Barrow. As conversations with tourists often go, they inevitably asked if I’d spotted any polar bears yet. Initially, I admitted that I hadn’t, but then corrected myself. I recounted the day that Michelle and I saw that one that didn’t quite count and mentioned, “Actually, it was right here,” gesturing towards the ocean. At that very moment, the older gentleman grabbed his binoculars, turned to look in the direction I’d pointed, and exclaimed, “There’s one!” Lo and behold, there was a polar bear making its way toward town.
That’s when I learned just how dark they can appear from a distance. I quickly called a cab, and we hopped in, although we could have easily walked; the comfort of having a car nearby was reassuring. We were the first to arrive at the scene, and it was truly incredible. One of the two whaling captains that I knew had has boat on shore there, which made for a very cultural photo op. I even took my first polar bear selfie here, albeit it looks like nothing more than a tiny spot in the distance. We observed the bear for about 30 minutes until it got spooked and took off. I never knew how comical polar bears look from behind when they run – their back legs flail out to the sides, and it’s downright amusing! After the taxi took us back home, I returned to the area on foot, hopeful the bear might return. It didn’t, but a few more people came to try and catch a glimpse, and that’s how I met Tony, my new polar bear buddy.
Tony worked for Search and Rescue as a medivac. He had been in stationed in Barrow since November, yet he, too, had not yet laid eyes on a polar bear. He shared the same determination to spot one as I did. We exchanged phone numbers, but it turned out we bumped into each other quite frequently when we were both on the hunt, even without needing those digits. In fact, from that point on, with nearly every polar bear that was I saw, Tony was right there with me, sharing in the excitement of the discovery.
One day, I was out at my spot, scanning the horizon for bears, when Tony pulled up, doing the same thing but with the advantage of having a car. He also had a top-notch pair of binoculars, and after he spotted the first bear using them, I knew I needed a pair for myself. Anyway, we were both at this spot, diligently searching for bears, when Tony spotted movement in the distance. Sure enough, it was a bear. We hopped in the car to get closer, and we figured the Fur Shop might offer the best vantage point. Our hunch was spot on.
When we arrived, there was one other car parked there, and a little girl in it asked, “Are you hear to see the nanuq?” That’s when I learned the Inupiat name for polar bear, and it’s something I’ll never forget. She had spotted the bear while they were driving by and pulled in to get a better look. We were the second ones on scene, but it didn’t take long before the word spread, and half the hospital staff, along with others from the town, had gathered. I overheard one lady mentioned that she’d lived in Barrow since the ‘70s and this was the first live polar bear she’d seen. I couldn’t help but think that she must not have been paying much attention or trying very hard. We did our best to try to capture pictures through the binoculars and managed to get a few decent shots. We watched this bear, or nanuq, until it moved behind an ice ridge, which was probably an hour after we’d arrived. Tony had a tool that measured the distance to the bear, and initially, she was only 358 yards away. It was an incredible day, but it didn’t quench my thirst to see more polar bears. I needed more, and so did Tony.
The next time I spotted a bear, I was back at my trusty spot and saw what might have been the same bear, or perhaps another, making its way towards the Fur Shop once more. I quickly sent Tony a text, “Polar bear heading towards Fur Shop.” His response was immediate: “I’m on my way.” I began walking, and Tony and his friend picked me up en route. That day, I devoted a full eight hours to watching this polar bear, which included eating and occasional strolls, but mostly snoozing. People came and went, asking questions and taking a look, only to leave multiple times during those eight hours. However, I was utterly captivated. Even though she spent most of her time sleeping, I couldn’t tear myself away.
At one point, one of our doctors arrived with a really impressive camera and lens. He set it up to focus on the bear, and we all took turns peering through it and snapping pictures. We managed to capture some fantastic shots, including my personal favorite among all the polar bear photos I’ve seen with my own eyes.
Polar bears hold a special place in my heart, and they’ve become one of my favorite aspects of life in the Arctic. I think it’s because this world was so unfamiliar to me before, and it’s a realm that hardly anyone in my circle knows about. It’s exotic, you know? There’s also an element of danger that surrounds polar bears, and perhaps that adds to the intrigue. However, I did learn not to fear them – at least not entirely. These creatures are rather laid-back, and they typically don’t go after people without provocation. But when they’re hungry, that’s a different story. That’s why it’s a bit concerning when they venture into town, as it usually means they’re on the hunt for food. Otherwise, they tend to keep their distance from people. The polar bears I sat and observed were busy munching on remnants left on the ice. While I knew they could potentially turn and charge in the blink of an eye, I never felt overly worried while sitting outside watching them because they already had their meal. As long as I didn’t threaten to take it, I was probably safe.
In addition to the element of danger, there are some fascinating facts about polar bears that make them incredibly intriguing:
- The scientific name for polar bears is Ursus maritimus.
- Polar bears are unique in that they have no natural predators.
- They are the largest land carnivores on earth. Typically, polar bears measure 6-9 feet in length and weigh in the range of 800 to 1,600 pounds for males and 300 to 700 pounds for females.
- Newborn polar bears are incredibly tiny, weighing only 1.5 pounds!
- While we often associate polar bears with white fur (which is actually transparent), their skin is black. This black skin helps them absorb and retain heat, while their “white” fur aids in camouflaging them in the snowy Arctic environment.
- Polar bears possess an extraordinary sense of smell, allowing them to detect their prey from over half a mile away.
- These magnificent creatures can sprint at speeds of up to 25 mph.
- Polar bears can walk on thin ice without it breaking, thanks to their large, wide paws that distribute their weight over a larger area.
- Polar bears are powerful swimmers and can cover long distances in the water. They are known to swim for hours at a stretch and can cover up to 60 miles in one go.
- In the summer, when food is scarce, polar bears can slow down their metabolism to conserve energy and survive without eating for months.
- Polar bears are known for their curiosity. In fact, if you encounter one, the recommended action isn’t to make yourself appear larger and more aggressive as you would with a black bear, nor should you stay still as you would with a brown bear. Instead, it’s advised to back away slowly while shedding articles of clothing or dropping items from your possession along the way. If a polar bear follows your scent, its curiosity may lead it to pause and examine what you’ve left behind, buying you some precious time to get away.
These remarkable characteristics and behaviors add to the allure and mystique that surrounds them in the Arctic wilderness.
It is heartening to know there are organizations dedicated to both educating the public about polar bears and actively working to protect their population in the face of challenges posed by climate change. These magnificent creatures play a vital role in the Arctic ecosystem, and their conservation is essential for the overall health of the region. Polar Bears International are these super-dedicated folks who are the biggest fans of polar bears and the Arctic. They’ve been doing this gig for a while, and their energy is seriously contagious. In fact, I even emailed them to see if there is any way that I can work with them on the side; I didn’t hear anything back. Nonetheless, they are awesome. They’re not your typical research nerds; they’re all about getting the word out and getting everyone hyped to face the challenges polar bears are up against as their icy world thaws. Their mission? To keep that Arctic spirit alive and thriving, and they’re doing it with a burst of passion and a whole lot of heart. The second organization is The World Wildlife Fund (WWF). Imagine the WWF as dedicated guardians of the earth. A global force since 1961, they are fiercely committed to protecting our planet’s biodiversity. Their mission reads like a superhero quest: rescuing endangered species, shielding threatened forests, and battling the mighty foes of climate change and poaching. They are not, however, on a solo mission; they join forces with governments, local communities, and even businesses to make a difference. Their endgame? To ensure the continuation of our world as a breathtaking and flourishing haven for us and the countless mesmerizing life forms we share it with, polar bears included, both today and for the generations yet to come.
In addition to my determination to contribute to Polar Bears International in some capacity, I’m also eagerly anticipating some polar-bear themed vacations that I’ve added to my bucket list. I have a strong desire to return to Barrow and Kaktovik during the fall whaling season, as it’s known to attract more polar bears. The recent influx of polar bear photos and videos from my friends has ignited my envy and longing for these experiences. However, these trips are not just about my passion for polar bears; they also stem from my profound appreciation for the North Slope.
Another destination that is calling my name is Churchill, Canada, hailed as the polar bear capital of the world. The Polar Bear Tundra Buggy Lodge offers a truly enchanting opportunity to wake up and witness polar bears right outside your window – an experience that seems almost otherworldly. What makes this adventure even more captivating is the presence of researchers on board, providing an opportunity for enlightening conversations in the evening. To top it all off, if the skies are clear, the remote location away from city lights promises awe-inspiring views of the starry skies and the possibility of catching a glimpse of the mesmerizing aurora borealis.
If you find yourself inspired to make a difference in polar bear research and conservation after reading this, I encourage you to explore the organizations I mentioned earlier. There are various avenues for contribution, including the unique opportunity to adopt a polar bear – how cool is that?! Yes, I have one- her name is Ursula. I also have a Venture bracelet from Fahlo, a company that partners with Polar Bears International and allows you to track your bear. Perhaps one day our paths will cross in the remote beauty of Barrow or Kaktovik or as we sip coffee and watch polar bears from the cozy confines of the Tundra Buggy Lodge. Until then, let’s continue to support theses remarkable creatures and the ecosystems they inhabit.
