My good friend Macy took an assignment in Nome, Alaska, a place I’ve wanted to visit since Barrow. Lucky for me, Macy was more than happy to let me stay with her! My trip coincided perfectly with the last few days of the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race, transforming Nome into a bustling center of excitement and activity. With so much going on, I threw myself into as many events and sights as I could. In chronological order, let me share with you some of the many things I did and learned in Nome.
The Nome National Forest
Upon arriving, Macy and I drove around town before parking and exploring on foot. I noticed some figures on the frozen Bering Sea and asked Macy if they were ice fishers. She wasn’t sure, so we (Macy, very reluctantly) moved closer. Once we got close enough to read the sign, I stopped and keeled over laughing. To our amusement, we discovered the “Nome National Forest,” a whimsical – and seasonal – creation featuring used Christmas trees, wooden cutouts of polar bears and mermaids, and even a cactus. Because of the harsh environmental conditions, the wooden cutouts need to be replaced every few years, and members of the community have a lot of fun coming up with new creations. This delightful spectacle began in the 1980s by Chuck Hosack as a playful prank on tourists but has since become a beloved annual tradition, bringing joy and laughter to myself and many others.
The Evolutionary History of Arctic Dogs
The National Park Service hosted a fascinating webinar on the history of Arctic dogs. The presentation detailed the multiple introductions of dogs to the Americas, particularly focusing on the Pre-Inuit migration (~5000 years ago across the Bering Strait in smaller populations) and the Inuit migration (~1000 years ago across the Bering Strait in larger populations). These dogs, brought from Siberia, were integral to Inuit life. Robert Peary even used sled dogs during his polar expeditions between 1891 and 1917. I learned that modern Inuit sled dogs, or qimmiq in Inupiat, maintain the ancient Inuit genotype and are one of the last true native North American dogs.
Snowshoeing
Following the dog history webinar, I joined a snowshoe tour to one of the six remaining dredges from the gold rush era. This was also put on by the National Parks Service. Our guide showed us Dredge #5, which is still operational. We also saw musk oxen in the distance and ptarmigan tracks, the state bird of Alaska, also known as the Alaskan chicken. The weather was cold but perfect, making for a beautiful and enjoyable hike.
Open Mic Night
That evening, I attended the 51st open mic night at the local elementary school. Nome’s talent shone through with performances of country and bluegrass music, poetry readings, and heartfelt stories. It was here that I first heard the Iditarod theme song…and then I didn’t stop hearing it! One memorable story was from a young woman who survived a gunshot wound to the head, proudly sharing her journey to getting her GED and attending college. She played the flute beautifully. Middle school students also showcased their poetic talents for extra credit.
Haulout: National Park Service (NPS)
The next day, I watched a moving documentary titled “Haulout” by Evgenia Arbugaeva and Maxim Arbugaev, highlighting climate change’s impact on walruses. The short film, released in 2022, follows a solitary Russian scientist who observes tens of thousands of walruses come ashore on a narrow Arctic beach each year due to melting sea ice – a massive “haulout” event. The documentary was both awe-inspiring and heart-wrenching, powerfully illustrating the devastating effects of climate change on wildlife.
Snapshots of Nome History
I attended an informative presentation on Nome’s history, including the gold rush era and its aftermath and focusing on the history of the Discovery Building. The “Three Lucky Swedes” (Jafet Linberg – a Norwegian, Eric Lindbolm, and John Brynteson) and their discovery of gold on Anvil Creek led to a significant influx of prospectors and one of the most significant gold rushes in Alaskan history.
Historic photos showed the bustling Front Street. The post office was frequently crowded, and people would actually pay others to stand in line for them to get their mail! Then in 1905, much of Nome was destroyed by a fire. Two blocks of Front Street were suddenly gone, with a loss of $250,000.00. Fifty business places were destroyed. One of the businesses that survived this fire was the Discovery Building, also referred to as the Discovery Saloon. In 1934, another fire devastated Nome. Sixty-five businesses and 90 homes were burned in this fire. The city dynamited buildings to keep the fire from reaching other areas. Once again, the Discovery Building survived. This building is one of the oldest standing buildings in Nome today. It was built in 1901, and over the years has served as a saloon, a home, and an office building. Today, the Discovery Saloon is 125 years old and is the private residence of Carol Gales, who also happened to be this presenter. It underwent extensive restoration to recreate some of its historic features. It remains an important historical landmark, offering a glimpse into the past and the vibrant history of one of Alaska’s most famous gold rush towns.
Crafting with Qiviut
One of the highlights of my trip was learning to spin yarn from musk ox wool, known as qiviut. This incredibly soft and warm material is highly prized for its insulating properties. I was amazed at how a thin pair of qiviut gloves could block the wind and cold better than any other knitted gloves I’ve tried, though they come with a hefty price tag of around $300.
Inupiaq Language
After crafting, I attended an Inupiaq language class, which captured my interest even though I didn’t learn much of the language itself. The instructor, who also runs an Inupiaq word of the day Facebook channel, shared insights into the cultural significance of the language and its preservation efforts.
Ice Golf
While I didn’t participate in the ice golf classic because you had to be part of a team (and I knew no one), I swung by to observe. Unlike in Barrow, the setup in Nome was more obvious, and participants could partake in one of the best parts of golf – the drinking! It looked like a good time!
Carrie M. McLain Memorial Museum
Although I’m not typically a museum enthusiast, the Carrie M. McLain Memorial Museum captivated me with many displays of the region’s rich history and cultural heritage. Named after Carrie M. McLain, a dedicated local historian and author, the museum offers an extensive collection of artifacts, photographs, and exhibits that vividly depict life in Nome and the surrounding areas from the Gold Rush era to the present day. Did you know that Wyatt Earp once owned a saloon in Nome?!
Visitors can explore exhibits on the indigenous peoples of the region, the dramatic impact of the Gold Rush, and the town’s unique Arctic environment. Some of the highlights include displays of traditional Inupiat tools and clothing, memorabilia from the early 20th century, and tributes to significant local figures. One particular exhibit honored Mr. and Mrs. Farley, who are recently deceased but left a significant mark on the community and the Iditarod. The museum not only serves as a center for historical preservation but also as an educational resource, providing insights into the resilience and ingenuity of the people who have called this region home. Through its carefully curated exhibits (and they are just that – the new director herself gave me a tour!), the Carrie M. McLain Memorial Museum truly celebrates the spirit and history of Nome.
St. Patrick’s Day Parade
I happened to be in Nome for St. Patrick’s Day, and I was unusually excited about their St. Patty’s Day parade. I rushed over to the parade from the museum, arriving early to secure my spot. There were only a few others there, and together we waited in the cold for the parade. Before I knew it, there they were…roughly a dozen people dressed in green walking together down the street, ringing bells and wishing onlookers a happy St. Patrick’s Day! That was it; that was the parade. I have never seen a parade quite like it, and I doubt I ever will again. It was amazing.
Musher Meet and Greets
I attended two musher meet and greets, which were more exciting than I expected. The first event allowed me to get autographs from all the mushers and have t-shirts signed for my nieces, nephews, and godson. All of the mushers were gathered in one room, and visitors had the opportunity to walk the tables and talk with each musher individually. The second event featured Jessica Klejka, who shared hilarious and inspiring stories, including her run-in with the moose that Dallas killed. Jessica is a veterinarian by trade, and she is a true inspiration – not only is she down-to-earth and funny, she finished the Iditarod…and she did it while pregnant!
Victory Fiesta and Red Lantern Margaritas
The local VFW hosted a Victory Fiesta to celebrate the end of another Iditarod. The Mexican food was unexpectedly fantastic, and those margaritas – absolutely delicious! I’m still not entirely sure what a red lantern margarita is, but I’m always down for a little mysterious charm.
I found myself sitting at the bar next to a woman who seemed to be about my age. She had volunteered for the Iditarod and eagerly shared her experiences. Since I had initially applied to volunteer myself, I was keen to hear her stories. Overall, her experience was positive, but as she spoke, I realized that attending as a spectator was the perfect choice for me. I got to enjoy the race, the events, and, of course, the Victory Fiesta, without any of the responsibilities.
Awards Banquet
The awards banquet was one of my favorite events. Catered by the Lakefront Hotel in Anchorage, Nomites look forward to the opportunity to have outside food within their community every year. The banquet featured delicious food and many awards. Listening to the mushers’ stories was incredibly interesting and inspiring, and their love for their dogs shone through.
Some of the awards that I found most interesting were:
- The Donlin Gold Sportsmanship Award – This award has been presented since 1977 to the musher who displays exemplary sportsmanship on trail. The recipient of this award is chosen by their fellow mushers. The winner receives a commemorative plaque and a $3,000.00 check. This year’s winner was Matthew Failor, who showed great care and compassion when Hunter Keefe lost one of his dogs on the trail. (Side note – I sat beside Matthew Failor and his wife and 9-month-old on my return flight from Nome to Anchorage. They are a truly humble, down-to-earth, fun family. They run Alaskan Husky Adventures in Wasilla, and I would encourage anyone visiting that area to check them out. They are great people!)
- The Hilcorp Alaska Most Inspirational Musher Award – This award has been presented since 2010 and goes to, as the name states, a musher who is deemed inspirational by their peers. The winner of this award receives a paid entry fee for the 2025 Iditarod. This year’s winner was Jessica Klejka. At her musher meet and greet, Jessica had stated that she will not race next year because she’ll have a baby at home. Will this award change her mind???
- The Leonhard Seppala Humanitarian Award – This award has been presented since 1982 and is given to a musher who demonstrates outstanding dog care yet remains competitive throughout the race. The winner of this award is chosen by the veterinary team and receives a commemorative trophy and a paid entry to the 2025 Iditarod. Wally Robinson won this award.
- The City of Nome Lolly Medley Memorial Golden Harness Award – Even dogs get awards at the Iditarod! Lolly Medley was a harness maker from Wasilla, and she was one of two women to run the second Iditarod. This award has been presented since 1974. The winning dog is chosen by mushers as the most outstanding lead dog. The prize – an embroidered gold-colored harness. This year’s harness went to Aero, winner Dallas Seavey’s lead dog.
Gold rush history
The Nome Gold Rush, which began in 1898 with the discovery of gold in Anvil Creek by the “Three Lucky Swedes,” transformed Nome into a bustling frontier town. By 1900, Nome’s population soared to around 20,000. The rush was not without its conflicts, including the notorious “Nome Gold Steal” led by Alexander McKenzie. In this scandal, McKenzie orchestrated a scheme to seize valuable gold claims from their rightful owners. The “Three Lucky Swedes” were victims of these seizures who fought back, garnering significant public attention and outrage and ultimately getting the federal government involved. The Nome Gold Steal was a dramatic episode in Alaska’s gold rush history. Although the initial gold boom waned by 1909, larger mining operations continued, leaving a lasting mark on the town’s history.
Conclusion
My visit to Nome during the last days of the Iditarod was an unforgettable adventure filled with history, culture, and breathtaking natural beauty. From learning about the town’s gold rush origins and the fascinating history of Arctic dogs to experiencing unique local traditions like the Nome National Forest, every moment was a blend of discovery and delight. Snowshoeing through pristine landscapes, attending engaging presentations, and participating in community events deepened my appreciation for this resilient and vibrant Alaskan town. Meeting the mushers and witnessing the incredible Iditarod spirit first-hand was a highlight, and the warmth and hospitality of the people, especially my dear friend Macy, made the trip truly special.
Nome is a place where history and tradition blend seamlessly with the stark beauty of the Arctic environment. Whether it’s the poignant reminders of climate change seen in the “Haulout” documentary, the rich tapestry of local stories, or the joy of crafting with qiviut, Nome offers experiences that linger long after the journey ends. I left with cherished memories, new knowledge, and a profound respect for this remarkable corner of the world. Until the next adventure, Nome, thank you for your stories and your spirit.
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